Best of Travel: 2012

'Tis the season when the world looks back on their previous twelve months. News stations will reflect on the most captivating stories of 2012 and radio stations across the globe will no doubt play their most popular 100 songs of the year (Gangnam Style??). Well, I figured that since this is a travel blog, I too would reflect upon and share our favorite travel moments and places of 2012.

2012 was a busy travel season for us. This year we actually had two travel seasons. The first began in January and lasted until the end of April, and fired-up again in mid-November and will end at the end of April 2013. In the past year we visited a total of 9 countries. Some were quick pass-throughs and others demanded a little more of our attention. Here is where we spent our time: Thailand, Myanmar (Burma), Laos, Vietnam, Cambodia, China, Korea, Holland, and now, Sri Lanka. Many of these destinations I have been to before but we needed to return to because Hyo Jin had never seen them. A lot had changed in the 10 years since I was last in some of those places (especially in Myanmar and Laos) and in other ways, much of it was just as I remembered (Thailand). One thing is for sure though, they all yielded some unforgettable travel experiences.

So then, let's get to it! This is our “Top Ten” Travel Moments of 2012…

1. Bagan, Myanmar (Burma).

One of the places I had been to before, but a lot had changed in Myanmar since 2002- especially in the department of tourism. Ten years ago I was one of a few people who entered this politically unstable country, and today there are thousands coming and going every month and on package vacations too. But Bagan is still a place where you can wander off the beaten track and find your own piece of something special. The views from up on top of some temples is like nowhere else in the world, as are the sunrises and sunsets.

Sunrise over Bagan

2. Zhangjiajie, Hunan, China.

Incredible. Unbelievable. Stunning. For anyone who appreciates nature and enjoys hiking, then add Zhangjiajie to your list. The geological features of this National Park are seriously out of this world, and maybe that's why director James Cameron got his inspiration for “Avatar” from these “floating mountains”.

Incredible Landscapes of Zhangjiajie

3. The Temples of Angkor, Cambodia.

Again, not my first time, but it almost felt like it. Each time I was there I had a one-week pass to explore the temples and each time I used every minute of it. There is always something new to discover here and you just can't get bored of the things you've seen before either. It makes a person wonder why we can't build anything that impressive anymore.

Faces of the Bayon, Angkor Thom

4. Yuanyang Rice Terraces, Yunnan, China.

We thought we've seen the best rice terraces in the world after traveling through the northern Philippines and areas of Indonesia. Nope! While those other terraces are beautiful and amazing, they don't hold a torch next to those around Yuanyang.

Yuanyang Sunrise

5. Exploring Around Yangshuo, Guangxi, China.

We weren't too impressed with the town of Yangshuo, but once we got away from the hordes of tourists, a whole new world unfolded. The karst landscapes around this region of Guangxi are jaw-dropping gorgeous. Rent a bicycle and get out to a place where no cars or boats go- there are plenty of these places around, and they will be all yours.

6. Jiuzhaigou, Sichuan, China.

Even though we were there at the worst possible time (early spring) when some of the many waterfalls were still dry, we were blown away by the colors of the lakes and the natural beauty of the whole National Park. It seemed at times almost artificial, but in a land like China, it's the furthest thing from artificiality as you can get. A perfect place to enjoy the fresh air.

Technicolor Lakes of Jiuzhaigou

7. Songkran Festival, Bangkok, Thailand.

This is a moment not a place, but at least it's a moment that lasts 4-5 days. It's the Thai New Year celebrations, and while the same holiday is celebrated in other countries of Southeast Asia as well, no one can thrown a party like the Thais! Prepared to get very wet, very dirty, and have the most fun of your life. This was my 3rd Songkran and can't wait til my next.

The Wet and Crazy Songkran Festival

8. Mrauk U, Myanmar.

Off the beaten track as far as Burma goes and well worth the plane trip and boat ride it takes to get there. If you're into Buddha statues and temple ruins then this is the place for you. You really get the feeling like you're all alone at times while wandering around these ancient temples- because you are.

Mrauk U at Sunrise

9. Yala National Park, Sri Lanka.

It's not every day that you can see leopards, especially on the same day you see about a hundred other species of animals too. The landscapes in this national park are as diverse as its wildlife, and even if you don't see one of the nearly extinct cats, you will surely end your day with a mammoth smile on your face.

10. The Ancient Cities, Sri Lanka.

It's a bit of a cop-out I know, as there are actually for ancient complexes involved here; Anuradhapura, Polonnaruwa, Sigiriya, and Dambulla. They are all great in their own way, but the artistry of Gal Vihara in Polonnaruwa, and the rock fortress of Sigiriya are mind-blowingly beautiful. I might even say that it was worth the $25 and $30 entrance fees.

Gal Vihara, Polonnaruwa

OK, 10 is not enough, and really, these are in no particular order (that would be too difficult). I think I need to at least give honorable mentions to five more amazing moments of 2012 on the not-so-lonesome road.

1. Tiger Leaping Gorge Trek, Yunnan, China.

Mountainous, windy, and rugged, this climb is not for the faint of heart. But the views from the top (and the bottom) are your reward for this two-day trek.

Hiking in the Tiger Leaping Gorge

2. Driving Around the Netherlands.

Yeah it's not everyday you can see a leopard, but it's also not everyday that you can take a road trip through your father's homeland with your father! Add to that one mother, and the opportunity to meet family that you've never met before, and you get one pretty awesome trip. And yes, lots of windmills, clogs, and cheese too!

Windmills at Kinderdijk

3. Plain of Jars, Laos.

What a weird place, but in between the jar sites there is plenty of beauty… and lots of unexploded ordinance (UXOs) too! Jars are cool.

Plain of Jars

4. Ancient City of Fenghuang, Hunan, China.

Call it touristy, cheesy, kitschy, sure, but enough of the old survives to make it a bonified ancient city and one of China's more fun towns to walk around. At night, Fenghuang gets all lit up and really reveals her true colors.

5. Crypt Lake Hike, Alberta, Canada.

This one comes from my home province. I've always wanted to do this hike and this year it came to fruition. It involves, ropes, ladders, and passing through a cave… need I say more? Good times for any mountain junkie.

The High Road to Crypt Lake

Our travel season will spill over into 2013 in just a couple of days. We will spend New Years still in Sri Lanka but fly into India one week later. There we will spend 3 months before spending our last month in Nepal. The next few months will surely deliver some more “best of” moments in travel to kickstart our list for 2013. Stay tuned!

 

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Yala and Bundala N.P.

After we were finished exploring the beaches and sights of the western and southern coasts, we headed inland (slightly) to visit a couple of Sri Lanka's spectacular national parks- Yala and Bundala. From Tangalla we caught the bus to Tissamaharama (Tissa)- a convenient base to reach the parks and a pleasant town in its own right. You knew upon arrival in Tissa that you were wedged between a couple of Sri Lanka's best parks. Mongooses and monitor lizards cross the roads among the throngs of three-wheeled rickshaws, the cries of spotted deer trump the horns of buses, kingfishers and parakeets share power line real estate, and monkeys monkey-around in the trees overhead. A short walk from our guesthouse brought you to a small lake with impressive granite outcrops off in the distance. The lake is home to crocodiles and serves as an important stopover for migratory birdlife. On the cultural side of things, Tissa hosts a lively market twice weekly (Sundays and Thursdays) where you can get your fill of delicious Sri Lankan “short eats”, and, Tissa is also home to a couple of massive 2000-year-old dagobas (stupas).

A Scene in Yala National Park

However, people come for the national parks that encircle Tissa, and we were no different. Yala is known for its prized big game such as elephants, wild bore, sambar, spotted deer, water buffalo, and with any luck, Yala remains the best place in the world to spot a leopard. Bundala is more renowned for its diverse birdlife but that's not to say that there isn't anything else lurking amongst the lakes, plains, and forests of the park.

But Yala National Park was first on our itinerary. The day before our 'safari' we hand-picked our own jeep and driver in town. Doing this affords you more control over the quality of vehicle you're getting and you can also assess your driver/guide's proficiency in both English and wildlife knowledge- but for the most part, I'm sure they are all reasonably competent. Half-day safaris in the park is by far the most popular choice but we opted for a full-day out and shared the expenses with another couple.

Our safari jeep

Right from the get-go there were animals everywhere. Peacocks by the dozens, many mongooses and monitors, lots of spotted deer, sambar deer and wild boar, and too many water buffaloes to count. The birdlife in the park was crazy too. We came across a tree at one point that had about 50 or 60 yellow hornbills in it. As well we saw eagles, storks, parakeets, an owl, and many others that I don't have the knowledge to name. Of course we saw plenty more crocodiles as well. By the day's end we probably saw at least a dozen elephants- a couple of them within a few meters distance from our jeep.

Our close encounter with an elephant

But the undeniable main attraction are the leopards. We were fortunate enough to see two. The first one was a little disappointing. Our guide and driver got the call as to where the leopard was spotted. When we arrived at the location there were many other jeeps clogging-up the road. Everyone was squinting and straining to see the cat high up on a branch in a massive tree and wondering why they were unable to see what was so obvious to the guides. Yet nobody really could. That was the only leopard sighting that most guests in the park got that day.

Up close with our leopard

The second leopard we saw came about an hour later, after all the half-day safari goers were already out of the park. Our lone jeep turned a bend in the road and there, lying in the shadow of a tree, was the leopard. We switched off the ignition and just sat there parked a few meters away and watched. The leopard watched us back. After about 10 minutes, it got up, stretched, and wondered off into the trees. We found it again a minute later up on a low branch with its eyes still fixed on us. We were the only people in the park that day to have such a personal interaction with a leopard. It was amazing.

After retreating to its tree

Regardless of the incredible array of wildlife, Yala is simply a stunning park. Even without seeing any animals, Yala is a feast for the eyes. There are so many diverse ecosystems packed into such a relatively small area: jungle, lakes, swamps, beaches, mountains, savannah, and massive granite monoliths all make up the collective Yala landscape. It was a spectacular day and definitely a highlight of our trip so far.

Birds of Bundala

The next day we took a half-day safari to Bundala National Park. The focus in this park is on the birdlife, but in addition to hundreds of birds, we saw wild boar, tonnes of grey langurs, crocodiles, and water buffalo. We even had the chance to see a few male peacocks performing their mating ritual dance- an awesome sight to see. Bundala is a gorgeous park that's worth a visit, even if you're like us- not the birder type.

The peacock dance and some grey langurs

 

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