Africa: The Last Leg

Already on the beautiful island of Zanzibar we were planning the last leg of our African trip. This meant some frantic online searching for safari-equipped 4X4s and of course our plane tickets to get back to Namibia. We managed to secure both, although waiting until the last minute to book our bush and camping-equipped 4X4 was not a good idea in retrospect- it was the end of April which is the beginning of the busy season, and these vehicles are in high demand. We finally found one though with a very reputable company (this is also a very important consideration when renting in Namibia), Savanna Car Hire in Windhoek. We got ourselves a Toyota Hilux double cab equipped with a rooftop tent, fridge, and all the camping and emergency road gear you can think of for a 15-day rental which set us back around $100 per day with all of our insurance included- not bad when you consider that you are completely self-sufficient for that period of time. The only other expenses you can expect are the camping fees which average around $30 per site and, of course, fuel. There are however plenty of places in Namibia where you can find a secluded place to pull over and set up camp without paying any fees at all, but if it’s the fancy washrooms with showers, restaurants and many times even swimming pools you want, you will need to pony up on the campsite.

Our first night in the desert

If you're going to drive in Africa, you gotta learn the signs!

Having been to Namibia a few months prior on our overland tour, we knew there were some places we wanted to return to and spend some more time in, namely some areas in the Namib Desert, Spitzkoppe, and Etosha National Park. As well there were also places that we wanted to explore for the first time such as some areas off the beaten track in the Damaraland and Kaokoveld regions. As with any road trip there would also be some more impromptu stops and in some cases these would prove to be among the highlights of the trip. So, a portion of our road trip was planned and at other times we changed our course and decided to wing it, but our 15 days went without a hitch and we loved every minute of it.

Inside Dead Vlei

Another scene from Dead Vlei

After leaving Namibia’s capital of Windhoek we headed south into the Namib Desert, spending our first few days around the incredible sand dunes and desertscapes of Sossusvlei. We started our mornings before the sun came up and usually didn’t return to camp until well after sunset. Not only are the times around sunrise and sunset the most photogenic, they are also the moments of the day that offer some reprieve from the oppressive temps that is all to common in this part of the country. Many afternoons the mercury climbed to well over 40 degrees Celsius. After we had our fill of the desert we headed towards the Skeleton Coast until just north of the Cape Cross Seal Reserve which is a real treat for all your senses! Here the mornings can be downright chilly and the winds blustery but its rugged scenery is well worth checking out. We then headed inland again spending a couple of nights in one of our favourite places… Spitzkoppe. We were blown away by its beauty the first time around and knew that we couldn’t leave Africa without becoming a little better acquainted with the area.

An oryx poses pretty, Sossusvlei

The seal colony at Cape Cross

Spitzkoppe by night

We then pushed further into Damaraland through the Brandberg area and onto the incredible territory of Twyfelfontein. This region was a spontaneous stop for us and became one of the trip’s highlights. It was here where we discovered many amazing petroglyphs that dated nearly 5000 years old. It was also in this area where we hung out with a herd of over 30 endangered desert elephants and spotted a couple of cheetahs to boot! From Twyfelfontein the roads became progressively worse which signaled our arrival into the Kaokoveld (Kunene) region. This area is arid at best but the further north we pushed, beautiful Baobabs became more prevalent. At some points we couldn’t have been more than 30 kilometers from the Angolan border but we based ourselves out of Opuwo, the hub of the Kaokoveld and the capital of Namibia’s northern tribal lands. The town itself is a hubbub of activity. OvaHimba push shopping carts through the supermarket aisles, Herero women trade their wares in the streets, and groups of Zemba girls hang out on the corners. It's truly a colourful display of life. We did head out to one Himba village not too far from Opuwo which was a nice insight into their culture and a fun afternoon. This experience was much more positive than the one we endured during our overland tour. This time it was just us, our interpreter, and a village full of Himba women and children who were just as happy to spend time with us as we were with them.

One of the petroglyphs in the Twyfelfontein area

Desert elephants, Twyfelfontein

Himba woman near Opuwo

After leaving Opuwo we made a beeline for Etosha National Park, entering from its westernmost gate. We spent our first night at Okaukuejo and our remaining nights at Halali, our favourite of Etosha’s camps. We had such great experiences with Etosha on our Nomad overland tour, but nothing could have prepared us for all the wildlife we spotted during our days of self-driving in the park. We really got to know some of the animals during this time; their habits and schedules, which made tracking them a whole lot of fun. Being in your own vehicle you can also spend as much (or as little) time as you want with each animal encounter. During our time in Etosha we saw more animals that make sense to list, and slept each night under the stars with the calls of the wild all around us. These were also very early mornings and late returns to camp, but there can be no question that the best time for wildlife viewing is during the early morning and late evening hours. We were rewarded royally one morning when a lone leopard crossed our path. The sun just came up, and it was just the leopard and us- one of our favourite experiences for sure! After Etosha we spent a couple of nights in the Waterberg region and that took us to the end of our 15-day road trip through Namibia. We put on a staggering 4,700 kilometers in those 15 days but man… was it worth it!

Night shot of a rhino at an Etosha waterhole

Male lion at the golden hour, Etosha

Early morning encounter with our leopard

Two exhausted lionesses and six reasons why!

Another male, another golden hour

A lone lioness and acacia tree

A black-backed jackal scurries along

We caught the Windhoek to Cape Town bus a couple of days later and there in Cape Town is where we enjoyed our last six days on the African continent. After four months we had come full-circle to the city we had started our journey, and one of our favourite cities in the world. We rented a car for a couple of days to explore some of the other sights scattered around the Western Cape and fell even deeper in love with the area. There can be no doubt that our trip to Africa was epic and one we will always remember and one we will probably always want to replicate. Seven countries and four months of experiences that we will cherish for the rest of our lives. But this will not be the last we see of Africa!

The colourful surf shacks at Muizenberg beach

 

Chobe & Hwange… our way!

A lion cub crosses our path in Hwange N.P., Zimbabwe

We had been in Africa for more than a month now and just completed a three-week overland camping safari that took us from Cape Town to Victoria Falls- a distance of more than 5,600 kilometers. The past three weeks had been hectic with little time to plan or prepare for our solo travels to come. Finally we had some time to do just that. We stayed on the Zimbabwean side of Vic Falls just one more afternoon after our tour had ended. There we went to the vast handicraft market to see what we could get in exchange for our two pillows that we had bought to make our nights camping a little more comfortable (our tour leader had previously told us that we could barter our unwanted stuff in the market of Victoria Falls once we were done with it… a fun and interesting solution we figured!) All the hawkers were pretty happy to see us and our pillows and the offers began immediately. After some time viewing each and everyone’s stall the negotiations were on. Hyo Jin warmed up to a giraffe made from bashed metal. We were happy to unload our two bulky pillows, but now a slightly scaled-down version of the world’s tallest animal was strapped to the side of my wife’s backpack for the duration of our trip! Hmmm. It was fun interacting with everyone at the market though. Other than the market and of course the falls themselves, there is little reason to linger in the town of Victoria Falls. It is a very expensive place to sleep and eat- especially for what you get in return. We were joined with one other girl from our tour and together the three of us walked from Zimbabwe to Zambia that evening, admiring the falls from the bridge as we passed. After clearing customs it was a short taxi ride into Livingstone. Livingstone is a much nicer base to explore the falls from with more amenities and sleeping options, at least for budget backpackers anyways. We checked into Fawlty Towers, a well-run backpackers in a convenient location in Livingstone. It has many nice dorms and private rooms, a self-catering kitchen, a great pool and bar, and when the Internet is on, it’s on! A nice place to unpack your bag for a few days, relax, and get a plan going. Our place offered free shuttles every morning to the Falls which we capitalized on once to check them out on the Zambian side. The falls are impressive from both sides but we did prefer the Zambian views over the Zimbabwean ones (refer to the last blog post for more details). Our backpackers was just a few shops down from the excellent Cafe Zambezi restaurant which we took advantage of on several occasions when we didn’t feel like cooking. Highly recommended.

Elephants making a splash, Chobe N.P., Botswana

After a couple days of rest and planning we were restless again. We were in Africa and we wanted to see some more animals. On our overland tour we had only enjoyed one morning safari and one boat cruise in Chobe National Park, and being in Livingstone we were still only 100 kilometers away. It was an easy decision on where to go. We caught a shared taxi to the border (about one hour and $5 for the both of us) and then a 10-minute ferry across the river and we were back in Botswana. We were at our accommodation at the Thebe River Safaris (a nice campground offering cheap safaris and river cruises) by noon, set up camp, went into Kasane to get some pula, and then booked our evening cruise along the Chobe River. The river cruise was once again beautiful and this time there were about 20 less of us on the boat. Our first sunset cruise was probably more spectacular in terms of wildlife numbers, but we still saw more than a hundred elephants, many hippos, and lots of other wildlife along the river’s banks to keep our excitements piqued and our cameras clicking. There is no such thing as a bad river cruise on the Chobe River. Back at the campsite we ran into another Nomad tour doing the exact trip as the one we had just completed the week before. This was a stroke of good luck for us. We didn’t bring along sleeping mats and our surrogate Nomad family was there to help us out. Once a Nomad family member, always a Nomad family member! The next morning we woke while it was still well dark, our morning safari began at 5:45.

 

Up close with a lioness, Chobe N.P.

While our second river cruise wasn’t quite as good as our first, our second land safari blew our first away! We saw so many more animals this time than just a week prior, but that’s just how the dice roll with nature. We saw many lions on this game drive and at least a hundred more elephants. It was just amazing at times how much ‘life’ was going on around us. We saw plenty of all the park’s grazers and most of Chobe’s predators as well, although we still hadn’t seen our leopard. Only the leopard had kept us from completing the African “Big 5” checklist (which are the lion, elephant, rhino, buffalo, and that elusive leopard). A spectacular morning game drive though to say the least. We were very happy with our decision to return to Chobe and now felt content with the time we had spent there. We were also very pleased with how inexpensively we could do it on our own. A safari in Africa can still be done on a backpacker’s budget. When we got back to our campsite there were a bunch of Rangers around attempting to dispose of a black mamba snake that had wandered through. They shot it multiple times until it hung lifeless from a branch. It was a beautiful snake, but the Rangers explained that they are far too venomous to keep alive in such close proximity to humans. That was the second snake we watched being put down by Rangers (the first was a spitting cobra in Etosha) and I still think that a greater effort could be made to keep these animals alive. Anyways, it was time to push forward and head back to Zimbabwe once again, we still had plans to visit one more park before returning to Zambia.

 

Hwange waterhole scene

A couple hours after leaving Kasane and we were back in Vic Falls. In town we befriended a very kind local who offered us the use of his 4X4 for the next couple of days so we could go on a self-drive safari to Hwange National Park, a three-hour (200 kilometer) drive south of Victoria Falls. We left early the next morning and were at the park boundary by 9 o’clock. But before we even entered the gate we encountered of first pride of lions. We watched as eight lions (including our first two lion cubs) crossed the road right in front of us (we had to slow the truck to allow them to do so) and stroll through the grasses to rest under the shade of a tree on the other side. We spent about an hour with them before carrying on into the park proper. We had later learned that we were once again very lucky since no lions had been spotted in or around the park for the past few days. We spent the rest of the day self-driving through the Park, searching for more animals. Each national park we had visited thus far had been so different. Namibia’s Etosha is predominantly dry except for the few waterholes scattered throughout the Park. Botswans’s Chobe on the other other hand is lush and forested thanks to the constant flow of the river that runs through it. Hwange is a cross between the two and at times even resembles the savannahs of the Serengeti. It is a nice blend of open spaces and thick forests, trees and grasslands. Self-driving is a completely different experience than being a passive passenger on a guided safari. You now have to find the wildlife and when you do it’s you who gets to decide how close you can approach it (for better or for worse). We probably missed out on some animals that the trained eyes of a guide might have seen, but I think we did pretty good and learned from our past safaris well. We saw all the park’s major mammals except for the very rarely seen cheetahs, and, yet again, the leopards. Even though we saw each and every species before, it still felt new and exciting because of the new landscapes we saw them in, and of course because we were the ones who found them. In the mid-afternoon we ran into an eccentric old man named Vincent who tended to one of the Park’s campsites. He was an interesting character who tipped us off about the location of a large male lion in the area. The male was a only a few hundred meters away but already fast asleep for the day somewhere amidst the grasses. We couldn’t wait for the cooler evening hours for him to move again (you are not allowed to drive after dark in the Park and we needed to get back to our camp), but the lead was a good place to start early the next morning.

 

This one nearly had a tire track tattoo

We were waiting at the Park gate the next morning when it opened and drove the 60 kilometers back towards Vincent’s campsite, allthewhile passing giraffes and zebras and the like. The whole time in Hwange we only saw a handful of other safari vehicles in the Park- it was after all low season (everywhere we had been in Africa so far) and Hwange does not see near the numbers of tourists as some of Africa’s more prestigious parks. Yet as we neared Vincent’s campsite we could see some other trucks (mainly research vehicles) circling the vicinity and we knew they must have been looking for the same male we had come to find. It didn’t look like any of the vehicles were having any luck and neither were we for that matter. We were almost out of time for the day (we had to be out of the park gate by 10 o’clock or risked being charged another full day) when we decided to try a small sandy track that forked off the main one. The sun was bright in the sky when my eyes strained to adjust to something in the shadows before us. Unsure of what it was, I instinctively hit the brakes. And lucky I did! Not three meters on the road in front of us, sleeping in the shade of a tree, was the large male we had been looking for. I couldn’t believe that I had almost hit the thing! It was yet again fortunate that just moments before we had stopped to admire a hornbill and I had not yet gathered up much speed. Anyways, there he was. And he remained dead asleep as the dust from our sudden stop settled around him. I maneuvered our truck into a better viewing position to the side of him (about 3 meters away), and only then did he wake. He stared at us for a few moments (completely unbothered by our presence) and moved to another tree on the other side of the track. And there we watched him for only a few minutes longer… it really was time to go. Once we reunited with the main road, we could still see the same trucks we saw earlier. Still circling, still searching for the male lion we just nearly ran over!

The beautiful male we found, Hwange N.P.

On our own we visited two national parks, each within easy reach from Victoria Falls. More importantly, we did them in a very inexpensive way. In both parks we saw a staggering amout of animals. Our time in Chobe cost us under $200 with camping, game viewing, and public transportation for the both of us. Hwange was only slightly more expensive simply because we had to pay for our own fuel and we opted not to camp. Either way, we had great experiences- experiences done our way. After we returned our truck we hopped across the border again, back to Livingstone. A couple days later we would take the ‘Golden Jubilee’ train from Livingstone to Lusaka, Zambia’s capital (a ride that was supposed to take 10 hours and actually took 18). There we would have to wait until Hyo Jin’s visa was processed for our next destination. Malawi here we come!

My own private waterhole, Hwange N.P.