Tanzania: Parks and Paradise

Inside the Ngorongoro

It’s true that our initial introduction to Tanzania was less than positive, but I had my camera equipment back and I was prepared to continue along our Tanzanian journey with a positive attitude. Sometimes a bounce back from tragedy can renew your spirit or at least make you appreciate everything a little more and it certainly serves as a reminder of the inherent risks of traveling in foreign countries. In this post I will offer some suggestions about organizing a safari on the fly, make a recommendation of the operator we went with, and write briefly about where we went and what we saw. The last portion of this post I will dedicate to the two weeks we spent in Zanzibar and the excellent guesthouse we called home during our time in Jambiani. However, in an attempt to expedite my tardy blog posts from Africa, I will try to make the last couple of entries text-sparing and image-heavy… I hope you don’t mind!

Lets get on with it then…

There can be no doubt that one of the main motivations for us deciding to visit Africa, and Tanzania in particular, was to see as much of its incredible wildlife as possible. We had already visited Etosha in Namibia, Chobe and the Okavango Delta in Botswana, and Hwange in Zimbabwe. These are all elite parks and should be a first choice if searching for wildlife in those respective countries. But we were still itching for more animal encounters and what better place to scratch that itch than in Tanzania’s national park Meccas of the Serengeti and the Ngorongoro Crater. However, in the aforementioned countries you can organize safaris or even self-drive your way through the parks all on your own and on a modest budget. This is not so much the case in Tanzania. As far as I know, you are not permitted to self drive in the Serengeti nor the Ngorongoro Conservation Area- and even if you could, it wouldn’t eliminate the requisite and exorbitant park fees which can be as high as $300 (US) per day.

Serengeti lioness

But if you want to keep costs down I do have some tips that will allow you to do just that. First, do not book your safari in advance, rather ‘shop around’ once you get to Arusha (the capital city of safari-land). You can often get far better rates or be in a advantageous bargain situation if you join other people and if you wait until you are there you may be the ones to fill-up the last spots on a safari that is leaving straight away. Another reason for not booking in advance is the simple fact that the smaller tour operators are not well represented on booking sites. Some small safari operators, such as the one we went with, operate out of a modest shop and do not advertise online. You can still do your research and check reviews on these operators on sites such as TripAdvisor but you are bound to get a lower price just because they want your business. Secondly, it will be cheaper yet if you share your safari with others- the more people in your truck, the cheaper the individual rate will be. But make sure you are compatible with the others in your group! The third money saving tip is this: go camping! Not only will you save a boatload of cash by going on a camping safari over an accommodated one, you will experience these parks the way it was intended… in the outdoors! Nothing is better than hearing the calls of nature while snug in your tent or answering the call of nature with prowling hyenas a few meters away! Yes, seriously! Fourth money saving suggestion would be to travel during the ‘off-season’. The off-season coincides with the months when the great migration of wildebeests is at a low and the probability of precipitation is at a high. We went in the beginning of April which is low season and we saw plenty of wildebeests and nary a day of rain during our week on safari. The last advice I can offer is this… sharpen your bargaining tools! A lot of people are put off by the ‘fly-catchers’ or tour touts that are swarming throughout the city of Arusha. We joked around with them quite a bit and if you can maintain that positive sense of humour with them then that whole nasty experience becomes less of a chore. Many of them can actually steer you in the direction of a good deal as well and always know which companies have a couple of vacant spots on their trucks. When you meet with the operators, tell them your budget and be firm on it. A day of pounding the streets of Arusha can save you hundreds of dollars.

This Serengeti leopard sighting completed our African Big 5

Goofin' around with the Great Masai gang

So, who did we go with and what did we see and do? We decided on a budget company that I can’t recommend enough… Great Masai Adventure. They are a family business located down a side street off Boma Road and man were they fantastic. Lota, Sidi, Eric and everyone at GMA are so nice and their professional hospitality is nothing short of impeccable. Sidi, our guide and driver, and Eric, our cook, were so much fun to be with and each did their job above and beyond our expectations. If you want an unforgettable safari experience and are on a budget, look no further than Great Masai Adventure. Your welcome! The first safari we took with them was a 4N/5D camping safari that took in the Tarangire NP, the Serengeti NP, and the Ngorongoro Crater Conservation Area. The guiding, the food, the accommodation (one night was at the Panorama camp where we stayed in mud ‘igloos’), the wildlife and nature were all exceptional. We were so enchanted by our time spent in the Ngorongoro Crater (not that we weren’t by the Serengeti or Tarangire) that we booked an additional 1N/2D trip with GMA the day after we got back from our first trip out to the parks. We spent one day in between our two tours in Arusha where we recruited a couple more budget backpackers to come with us, and in return, GMA charged only $150 for each of us for the next 2 days in the crater. Great people, great company! So what did we see? Well, in terms of wildlife and nature we saw simply too much to write about. I will let the following photographs paraphrase that for me, but, as per usual, a picture may be worth a thousand words, but they don’t do justice to the actual experience of visiting these majestic parks.

Zebras among the Baobabs in Tarangire NP

Lion cub, Serengeti NP

Leopard, Serengeti NP

Hippo pool, Serengeti

Male lion, Serengeti

Serengeti scene

Another Serengeti lioness

Scenes from the Serengeti and Crater

Bull elephant, Ngorongoro

Wildebeest, Ngorongoro

Another bull in the crater

After a quick stopover in Moshi for a fleeting glimpse of Mt. Kilimanjaro, our last 2 weeks in Tanzania were spent on the idyllic island of Zanzibar- a short ferry ride from Dar. For the first three days we just explored the labyrinth-style streets of Stone Town, Zanzibar’s economic and cultural capital. It’s quite a nice town to explore with friendly people, good food, strong coffee and plenty of historical sites and amazing architecture to check out. Then it was off to the beaches. It was our initial plan to beach hop around the island for 10 days, but instead we got very comfortable in a single location on the stretch of beach known as Jambiani- thanks to some fantastic home cooking, stunning accommodation, and a wonderful hostess named Lisa (along with her 11 cats and 3 dogs).

Enjoying the beaches around Jambiani

We found the Mango Beach House after being dropped off in Jambiani and walking along its stretch of sand. Many of the accommodation options were closed during the off-season but we happened upon the best and it was open for business. Mango Beach House wouldn’t normally fall within our backpacker budget, but it was low season and Lisa gave us a rate that we couldn’t refuse. The guesthouse is immaculately decorated with the objects that Lisa has accumulated over the years of combing the beaches and the whole place feels like an art gallery. What made our stay even more memorable, and the main reason we stayed for 10 nights, was that Lisa took us out on daily sightseeing trips around the island. This was an invaluable way to really see the island and with insider knowledge to boot! She took us to the national park, low tide swimming at some secret spots, and so many beautiful beaches that we wouldn’t have seen if it wasn’t for her. If you are looking for a low-key local beach experience then you can’t go wrong with Jambiani, and if you’re in Jambiani then I highly recommend staying at Mango Beach House. Tell Lisa and the guys we say hi! While Zanzibar is an island that is feeling the pressure that mass tourism has placed upon it, and one of those places you wish you would have had the pleasure of visiting 15 years ago, it remains a worthwhile destination to check out or maybe even linger in for a couple of weeks. After a few weeks of touring around mainland Tanzania, you will definitely appreciate it! We spent a couple more nights in Stone Town before catching an early morning flight back to Namibia via Nairobi and Jo’berg. Our second visit to Namibia and our return to South Africa would be the last leg of our trip to Africa. There would be some amazing experiences yet to come. One more blog post to go…

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